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Sara Dionísio António, Jebbe van der Werf, Erik Horstman, Iván Cáceres, José Alsina, Joep van der Zanden and Suzanne Hulscher
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy acc...
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Ioannis Kazakis and Theophanis V. Karambas
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source...
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Umberto Andriolo
Within the nearshore area, three wave transformation domains can be distinguished based on the wave properties: shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The identification of these distinct areas is relevant for understanding nearshore wave propagation propertie...
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Kwami Serge Foga Agbetossou, Denis Worlanyo Aheto, Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng, Leo Cornelius van Rijn, Koko Zébéto Houédakor, Emmanuel Kwadzo Brempong and Folly Serge Tomety
Field measurements of longshore sediment transport have been performed in the surf zone along Denu Beach, located in the Volta Region of Ghana, West Africa. This study consisted of measuring sediment transport rates by the deployment of modified versions...
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Florent Birrien and Tom Baldock
An equilibrium beach profile model is developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between the evolving morphology and the hydrodynamics. The model is compared to laboratory beach profiles evolving toward equilibrium con...
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Francesca De Serio and Michele Mossa
In coastal dynamics, large-scale eddies transport and spread smaller turbulent vortices both towards the sea surface, thus contributing to the processes of air-water gas transfer, and towards the sea bottom, inducing sediment pick-up and resuspension. Th...
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Hyun-Doug Yoon, Daniel Cox and Nobuhito Mori
To quantify the effect of wave breaking turbulence on sediment transport in the nearshore, the vertical distribution of time-averaged suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in the surf zone was parameterized in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE)...
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Troels Aagaard, Joost Brinkkemper, Drude F. Christensen, Michael G. Hughes and Gerben Ruessink
The existence of sandy beaches relies on the onshore transport of sand by waves during post-storm conditions. Most operational sediment transport models employ wave-averaged terms, and/or the instantaneous cross-shore velocity signal, but the models ofte...
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Adam C. Brown and Robert K. Paasch
A spherical wave measurement buoy capable of detecting breaking waves has been designed and built. The buoy is 16 inches in diameter and houses a 9 degree of freedom inertial measurement unit (IMU). The orientation and acceleration of the buoy is continu...
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Clément Bouvier, Bruno Castelle and Yann Balouin
Coastal defense strategies based on structures are increasingly unpopular as they are costly, leave lasting scars on the landscape, and sometimes have limited effectiveness or even adverse impacts. While a clear improvement concerning aesthetic considera...
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Stephanie Contardo, Graham Symonds, Laura E. Segura, Ryan J. Lowe and Jeff E. Hansen
An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind w...
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Samantha Kularatne and Charitha Pattiaratchi
Results from a series of field experiments, conducted to investigate the influence of infragravity waves (from wave groups), ripple type and location relative to the breaker line on cross-shore suspended sediment flux close to the sea bed in nearshore en...
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Jun Wang, Bo Yang, Bingchen Liang, Zai-Jin You, Zhenlu Wang and Zhaowei Wang
In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-int...
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Daniele Trogu, Simone Simeone, Andrea Ruju, Marco Porta, Angelo Ibba and Sandro DeMuro
This paper investigates the dynamics of the cross-shore extensions of banquettes, a sedimentary structure mostly made by rests of Posidonia oceanica (L.) Delile, in a sandy urban beach located in the Gulf of Cagliari, Italy, western Mediterranean. A vide...
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Jacqueline Michel and Philip Bambach
Based on past spills, the conditions under which floating oil mixes with enough sand to form sunken oil mats (SOMs) are identified. SOMs form mostly during spills of heavy crudes or heavy fuel oils, but also highly weathered and viscous crude oils. They ...
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Sheng Yan, Zhili Zou, Dong Wang and Zaijin You
The accurate determination of cross-shore longshore current profiles in the surf zone is essentially important in understanding of coastal physical processes and modelling of longshore sediment transport. In this study, a comprehensive laboratory study w...
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Tussanun Thunyaphun, Shinya Umeda and Masatoshi Yuhi
This study discusses the coastal sediment budget for the Ishikawa coast using 12 years of observational datasets; it involves an understanding the local and regional sediment dynamics, the intensity of the transport processes in the region, and sediment ...
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Shih-Chun Hsiao, Han-Lun Wu, Wei-Bo Chen, Wen-Dar Guo, Chih-Hsin Chang and Wen-Ray Su
Super Typhoons Maria (2018) and Lekima (2019) were adopted for this case study, although they only passed the northern offshore waters of Taiwan without making landfall. A direct modification technique was employed to create the atmospheric conditions fo...
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Giovanni Cannata, Federica Palleschi, Benedetta Iele and Francesco Gallerano
A new three-dimensional high-order shock-capturing model for the numerical simulation of breaking waves is proposed. The proposed model is based on an integral contravariant form of the Navier?Stokes equations in a time-dependent generalized curvilinear ...
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Duoc Tan Nguyen, Niels G. Jacobsen and Dano Roelvink
This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is emplo...
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