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Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers and Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier?Stokes (RANS) equations with a k&#x...
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Daniel Howe, Chris E. Blenkinsopp, Ian L. Turner, Tom E. Baldock and Jack A. Puleo
Robust measurements of bed shear stress under wave runup flows are necessary to inform beachface sediment transport modelling. In this study, direct measurements of swash zone bed shear stress were obtained in medium and prototype-scale laboratory experi...
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Tristan B. Guest and Alex E. Hay
On mixed sand?gravel beaches, impacts from gravel- and cobble-sized grains?mobilized by the energetic shorebreak?limit the utility of in situ instrumentation for measuring the small-scale response of the beach face on wave period time scales. We present ...
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Sara Dionísio António, Jebbe van der Werf, Erik Horstman, Iván Cáceres, José Alsina, Joep van der Zanden and Suzanne Hulscher
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy acc...
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Ioannis Kazakis and Theophanis V. Karambas
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source...
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Anika Manz, Ana Catarina Zózimo and Juan L. Garzon
This work aimed at testing the capability of the numerical model SWASH to be implemented in the prototype of the overtopping and flooding forecast system HIDRALERTA for Ericeira harbour. In contrast to the neural network NN_OVERTOPPING2, which is current...
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Chongbo Jing, Junjie Zhou, Shihua Yuan and Siyuan Zhao
This paper presents a theoretical model and its experimental validation for the pressure ratio of a swash plate-rotating hydraulic transformer. The structure and principle of the new type of transformer are described. The swash plate-rotating type can re...
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Achilleas G. Samaras and Theophanis V. Karambas
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and ...
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Demetra Cristaudo, Benedict M. Gross and Jack A. Puleo
Military activity has resulted in unexploded ordnance (UXO) existing in the nearshore. Understanding and predicting UXO behavior is important for object identification, and management. Here, two studies (laboratory and fieldwork) have been conducted to o...
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Rong Zhang, Yongping Chen, Peng Yao, Marcel J. F. Stive and Jian Zeng
Coastal permeable groins have been used to protect beaches from erosion for centuries. However, the hydraulic functioning of permeable groins has not been fully understood and their design heavily depends on engineering experiences. In this study, numeri...
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Piera Fischione, Davide Pasquali, Daniele Celli, Carmine Di Nucci and Marcello Di Risio
The beach drainage can be included among the soft engineering methods aimed to counteract the shoreline retreat related to the sediment redistribution along the beach profile. The idea that the groundwater table plays a role in the mobilization of the se...
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Jessie Louisor, Jérémy Rohmer, Thomas Bulteau, Faïza Boulahya, Rodrigo Pedreros, Aurélie Maspataud and Julie Mugica
As low-lying coastal areas can be impacted by flooding caused by dynamic components that are dependent on each other (wind, waves, water levels?tide, atmospheric surge, currents), the analysis of the return period of a single component is not representat...
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Gabriela Medellín, Martí Mayor, Christian M. Appendini, Ruth Cerezo-Mota and José A. Jiménez
Wave runup is a relevant parameter to determine the storm impact on barrier islands. Here, the role of the beach morphology on wave runup and storm impact was investigated at four coastal communities located on the northern Yucatan coast. Current wave co...
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Yana Saprykina, Margarita Shtremel, Samiksha Volvaiker and Sergey Kuznetsov
The evolution of wind waves in coastal zones leads to changes in the shape of the wave spectrum. Along the coast of Kerala, due to the presence of mudbanks during the southwest monsoon, we could observe downshifting of the peak frequency in the wave spec...
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Daniele Celli, Yuzhu Li, Muk Chen Ong and Marcello Di Risio
The effects of submerged berms in attenuating the momentary liquefaction beneath rubble mound breakwaters under regular waves were investigated in a recent study. The present work aims to investigate the momentary liquefaction probabilities around and be...
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Luís Pedro Almeida, Rafael Almar, Chris Blenkinsopp, Nadia Senechal, Erwin Bergsma, France Floc?h, Charles Caulet, Melanie Biausque, Patrick Marchesiello, Philippe Grandjean, Jerome Ammann, Rachid Benshila, Duong Hai Thuan, Paula Gomes da Silva and Nguyen Trung Viet
A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Lidar ...
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Alec Torres-Freyermuth, Anne Hofman, José Clemente Tuz-Pech, Gabriela Medellín and Pieter C. Roos
Beach erosion, ubiquitous of sandy coasts around the world, can be exacerbated or mitigated with the use of hard engineering solutions including groins. The use of groins has been discouraged in many countries despite its capability to reduce sand losses...
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Déborah Idier, Rodrigo Pedreros, Jérémy Rohmer and Gonéri Le Cozannet
Coastal floods are driven by many hydro-meteorological forcing factors, among which are mean sea levels, tides, atmospheric storm surges, and waves. Depending on these conditions, wave overtopping may occur and, in some cases, lead to a significant flood...
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Umberto Andriolo
Within the nearshore area, three wave transformation domains can be distinguished based on the wave properties: shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The identification of these distinct areas is relevant for understanding nearshore wave propagation propertie...
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